Equipment Recommendations for FII Level 1
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Mask
Any mask that covers your eyes and has a nose pocket to allow for equalization should suffice for class. Students have had success using SCUBA masks and snorkeling masks. A freediving mask is very similar to a SCUBA or even the inexpensive masks that come in the snorkeling kits that you often see at sporting goods stores. What sets a freediving mask apart is that it tends to be much lower in internal volume, has a double banded head strap, and is made with silicone that is often solid in color. Two of my favorite masks are the Sphere X Mask and the Mako Mini Mask. Both masks are very comfortable and fit a variety of faces. Both women and men in my classes have purchased and used these masks.
Any mask that covers your eyes and has a nose pocket to allow for equalization should suffice for class. Students have had success using SCUBA masks and snorkeling masks. A freediving mask is very similar to a SCUBA or even the inexpensive masks that come in the snorkeling kits that you often see at sporting goods stores. What sets a freediving mask apart is that it tends to be much lower in internal volume, has a double banded head strap, and is made with silicone that is often solid in color. Two of my favorite masks are the Sphere X Mask and the Mako Mini Mask. Both masks are very comfortable and fit a variety of faces. Both women and men in my classes have purchased and used these masks.
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Snorkel
Any snorkel will work for the class. The preferred snorkel is a simple "J" snorkel with a soft tube and a silicone mouth piece. Due to the position that you will wear your snorkel, you will want to opt for a simple, streamlined, and comfortable design. Some snorkels are built with dry valves at the top and/or bottom of the snorkel. While there is no denying that these features work, they do so at a significant increase in price and often build dependencies that can often be more of a hinderance in the long run. In addition, feature-rich snorkels (a.k.a. Dry Snorkels) tend to be much larger and heavier than a simple "J" snorkel which can lead to an increase in drag and uncomfortable wobbling at speed. You can learn to use a simple snorkel relatively quickly and learn to achieve many of the same advantages of a "dry snorkel" through technique. A tried and true snorkel that I've used for years is the Cressi Corsica Freediving Snorkel. Another good snorkel that is very comfortable is the Kraken Aquatics Freediving Snorkel.
Any snorkel will work for the class. The preferred snorkel is a simple "J" snorkel with a soft tube and a silicone mouth piece. Due to the position that you will wear your snorkel, you will want to opt for a simple, streamlined, and comfortable design. Some snorkels are built with dry valves at the top and/or bottom of the snorkel. While there is no denying that these features work, they do so at a significant increase in price and often build dependencies that can often be more of a hinderance in the long run. In addition, feature-rich snorkels (a.k.a. Dry Snorkels) tend to be much larger and heavier than a simple "J" snorkel which can lead to an increase in drag and uncomfortable wobbling at speed. You can learn to use a simple snorkel relatively quickly and learn to achieve many of the same advantages of a "dry snorkel" through technique. A tried and true snorkel that I've used for years is the Cressi Corsica Freediving Snorkel. Another good snorkel that is very comfortable is the Kraken Aquatics Freediving Snorkel.
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Fins
For starters almost any fin will work. My wife learned how to freedive using cheap rubber and plastic snorkeling fins to dive to over 60 feet on her first session. I've had students use SCUBA fins as well. If you decide to stick with freediving and want to increase your efficiency and comfort, then freediving-specific fins are a good investment. Typical freediving fins are designed for a medium speed. They are close-heeled to increase hydrodynamic efficiency and long in length to facilitate propulsion with a slower kick cycle and wider undulation. Key features to look for are a foot pocket that is stiff enough to provide good energy transfer, but soft enough for comfort. For recreational diving as well as spearfishing, I'd opt for a softer foot pocket since you'll typically be spending a longer time in the water and finning at the surface to your destination. Competitors on the other hand often utilize a stiffer fin in improve efficiency. For the fit, I like to ensure that the fin feels comfortable with a neoprene sock. In the PA/MD/VA area, I use a 2mm to 3mm for the quarries. In the tropics, I opt for a 1mm neoprene sock or even just a plain cotton sock to reduce abrasion. Fin blades are made of plastic, fiberglass, or carbon fiber, and their cost go up in that same order. For recreational diving and spearfishing, plastic or fiberglass is good enough. Both are very durable. Carbon fiber has a much better snap reflex than plastic and fiberglass, and is much lighter. That said, carbon fiber tends to be more fragile. Regardless of the material of the blade, the most important point to consider when choosing a blade is the stiffness of the blade. Those with slender, long legs tend to fare better with a softer fin while those with shorter, stockier legs gravitate toward stiffer fins. When in doubt, I'd opt for a softer fin. Most freediving fins have removable blades so you can swap out the blades for different types of diving. The following are good fins that I've used and have recommended to students. Cressi Gara 3000 - good plastic fin that have been around for a while. I had a pair of Gara 2000s almost 20 years ago. The foot pocket is good for divers with feet that are more narrow. This is more evident when used in colder waters with a neoprene sock. If worn with a light sock or barefoot, then it fits most divers just fine. The Cressi Gara blades are fused to the foot pockets. Another decent fin made from a fiberglass/polymer blend is the Mako Competition Freediver. Do not be put off by the name "competition". These fins are in a good price range for the quality and are definitely just fine for recreational diving as well as competition. As previously mentioned, competitors tend to opt for carbon fiber blades. The blades can be removed so you can upgrade to fiberglass or carbon fiber. These fins also come in women's sizes which is the main reason I recommend them given the difficulty of finding smaller sized foot pockets.
For starters almost any fin will work. My wife learned how to freedive using cheap rubber and plastic snorkeling fins to dive to over 60 feet on her first session. I've had students use SCUBA fins as well. If you decide to stick with freediving and want to increase your efficiency and comfort, then freediving-specific fins are a good investment. Typical freediving fins are designed for a medium speed. They are close-heeled to increase hydrodynamic efficiency and long in length to facilitate propulsion with a slower kick cycle and wider undulation. Key features to look for are a foot pocket that is stiff enough to provide good energy transfer, but soft enough for comfort. For recreational diving as well as spearfishing, I'd opt for a softer foot pocket since you'll typically be spending a longer time in the water and finning at the surface to your destination. Competitors on the other hand often utilize a stiffer fin in improve efficiency. For the fit, I like to ensure that the fin feels comfortable with a neoprene sock. In the PA/MD/VA area, I use a 2mm to 3mm for the quarries. In the tropics, I opt for a 1mm neoprene sock or even just a plain cotton sock to reduce abrasion. Fin blades are made of plastic, fiberglass, or carbon fiber, and their cost go up in that same order. For recreational diving and spearfishing, plastic or fiberglass is good enough. Both are very durable. Carbon fiber has a much better snap reflex than plastic and fiberglass, and is much lighter. That said, carbon fiber tends to be more fragile. Regardless of the material of the blade, the most important point to consider when choosing a blade is the stiffness of the blade. Those with slender, long legs tend to fare better with a softer fin while those with shorter, stockier legs gravitate toward stiffer fins. When in doubt, I'd opt for a softer fin. Most freediving fins have removable blades so you can swap out the blades for different types of diving. The following are good fins that I've used and have recommended to students. Cressi Gara 3000 - good plastic fin that have been around for a while. I had a pair of Gara 2000s almost 20 years ago. The foot pocket is good for divers with feet that are more narrow. This is more evident when used in colder waters with a neoprene sock. If worn with a light sock or barefoot, then it fits most divers just fine. The Cressi Gara blades are fused to the foot pockets. Another decent fin made from a fiberglass/polymer blend is the Mako Competition Freediver. Do not be put off by the name "competition". These fins are in a good price range for the quality and are definitely just fine for recreational diving as well as competition. As previously mentioned, competitors tend to opt for carbon fiber blades. The blades can be removed so you can upgrade to fiberglass or carbon fiber. These fins also come in women's sizes which is the main reason I recommend them given the difficulty of finding smaller sized foot pockets.
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Weight belt
I highly recommend a rubber weight belt as opposed to the standard SCUBA nylon weight belt. A rubber weight belt allows for better positioning around the hip bones in addition to increased comfort overall. Nylon weight belts tend to loosen and move as the freediver descends to depth. The two rubber weight belts below are both very comfortable, effective, and easy to ditch in the case of emergency. The first is the most popular with its quick-release buckle. The second has characteristics that you see with your standard pant belt that you probably wear to work. It releases just as quickly as the first. Either are good.
I highly recommend a rubber weight belt as opposed to the standard SCUBA nylon weight belt. A rubber weight belt allows for better positioning around the hip bones in addition to increased comfort overall. Nylon weight belts tend to loosen and move as the freediver descends to depth. The two rubber weight belts below are both very comfortable, effective, and easy to ditch in the case of emergency. The first is the most popular with its quick-release buckle. The second has characteristics that you see with your standard pant belt that you probably wear to work. It releases just as quickly as the first. Either are good.
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Weights
For lead weights, I recommend smaller weight increments such as 1 lbs so that the weight can be evenly distributed around the weight belt to increase comfort and balance. In general you will need about 1 - 3 lbs of weight for a 3mm wetsuit (freshwater), 2 - 4 lbs for a 3mm wetsuit (saltwater), 3-5 lbs for a 5mm wetsuit (freshwater), and 4 - 7 lbs for a 5mm wetsuit (saltwater). Keep in mind that these are just rough estimates based on my experience and for proper buoyancy recommendations as per the FII system. For outdoor diving, uncoated weights are fine. For pool training, I recommend vinyl coated weights to prevent marking up the pool. Any brand will do.
For lead weights, I recommend smaller weight increments such as 1 lbs so that the weight can be evenly distributed around the weight belt to increase comfort and balance. In general you will need about 1 - 3 lbs of weight for a 3mm wetsuit (freshwater), 2 - 4 lbs for a 3mm wetsuit (saltwater), 3-5 lbs for a 5mm wetsuit (freshwater), and 4 - 7 lbs for a 5mm wetsuit (saltwater). Keep in mind that these are just rough estimates based on my experience and for proper buoyancy recommendations as per the FII system. For outdoor diving, uncoated weights are fine. For pool training, I recommend vinyl coated weights to prevent marking up the pool. Any brand will do.
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Timing Device
For FII Level 1 freediver, any waterproof watch (rated to at least 20 meters) with a timing device should suffice. If you plan to stick to freediving, then a dedicated freediving wrist computer is recommended. I currently use the Oceanic F10. I will elaborate further in a future blog post.
For FII Level 1 freediver, any waterproof watch (rated to at least 20 meters) with a timing device should suffice. If you plan to stick to freediving, then a dedicated freediving wrist computer is recommended. I currently use the Oceanic F10. I will elaborate further in a future blog post.
Wetsuit
For FII Level 1 freediver, I recommend a 3mm - 5mm wetsuit for the quarry (depending on the time of year), and a 1mm - 3mm wetsuit for the pool. As a note, students typically will wear the suit that they purchased/rented for the quarry in the pool as well. Many students opt to use SCUBA wetsuits for the course since these are typically the only suits offered for rent by most dive shops. SCUBA suits come in two-piece farmer john style or a one piece. I recommend the one piece. If you decide to purchase a freediving-specific wetsuit for class, I recommend two-piece wetsuits made from Yamamoto neoprene - yamamoto 45 in particular is a grade of very soft and supple neoprene to maximizes comfort, thermal protection, and range of motion. The outside should be nylon covered for durability and the inside should be exposed open cell neoprene for superior heat retention. These suits will require a lube to put on. I personally use custom tailored suits made by Oceaner and Eliossub. For quality suits at a decent price, check out Mako Spearguns based out of Fredericksburg, Virginia. The owner sells his own private label so you get a quality product at a fair price. Mako has a presence on Amazon too if you haven't noticed from some of my other product recommendations. Check out their store on Amazon. Visit the Mako site directly for more options.
For FII Level 1 freediver, I recommend a 3mm - 5mm wetsuit for the quarry (depending on the time of year), and a 1mm - 3mm wetsuit for the pool. As a note, students typically will wear the suit that they purchased/rented for the quarry in the pool as well. Many students opt to use SCUBA wetsuits for the course since these are typically the only suits offered for rent by most dive shops. SCUBA suits come in two-piece farmer john style or a one piece. I recommend the one piece. If you decide to purchase a freediving-specific wetsuit for class, I recommend two-piece wetsuits made from Yamamoto neoprene - yamamoto 45 in particular is a grade of very soft and supple neoprene to maximizes comfort, thermal protection, and range of motion. The outside should be nylon covered for durability and the inside should be exposed open cell neoprene for superior heat retention. These suits will require a lube to put on. I personally use custom tailored suits made by Oceaner and Eliossub. For quality suits at a decent price, check out Mako Spearguns based out of Fredericksburg, Virginia. The owner sells his own private label so you get a quality product at a fair price. Mako has a presence on Amazon too if you haven't noticed from some of my other product recommendations. Check out their store on Amazon. Visit the Mako site directly for more options.
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MISC Gear
Defogger - My favorite is 500PSI Mask Defog. I've used this product for both SCUBA and freediving since 1993.
Yellow electrical tape - Any brand such as Scotch will do. Great to have to mark equipment (e.g., make yourself more visible to your buddy or facilitate recovery of lost gear). Also great for blisters on toes. I keep a 6 inch strip wrapped around my snorkel tube as back up in the event I develop a blister. It tears easily, is waterproof, and easy to remove without the gunky residue typical of other tapes like duct tape.
Cut resistant traction-grip gloves - Any brand such as Dex Fit will do. Provides good abrasion resistance, positive grip, and cut resistance all without sacrificing finger dexterity. They provide a little thermal protection by slowing water exchange, but this is not their purpose. I use these even in cold quarries because I'd rather sacrifice a little comfort for unhindered mobility and abrasion protection.
Neoprene dive socks - My favorite are these 2mm dive socks from Neosport.
Defogger - My favorite is 500PSI Mask Defog. I've used this product for both SCUBA and freediving since 1993.
Yellow electrical tape - Any brand such as Scotch will do. Great to have to mark equipment (e.g., make yourself more visible to your buddy or facilitate recovery of lost gear). Also great for blisters on toes. I keep a 6 inch strip wrapped around my snorkel tube as back up in the event I develop a blister. It tears easily, is waterproof, and easy to remove without the gunky residue typical of other tapes like duct tape.
Cut resistant traction-grip gloves - Any brand such as Dex Fit will do. Provides good abrasion resistance, positive grip, and cut resistance all without sacrificing finger dexterity. They provide a little thermal protection by slowing water exchange, but this is not their purpose. I use these even in cold quarries because I'd rather sacrifice a little comfort for unhindered mobility and abrasion protection.
Neoprene dive socks - My favorite are these 2mm dive socks from Neosport.
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